Amaryllis – Don’t let your bulbs die

By Sandy Grimwade

The amaryllis you bought, or received as a present, has flowered magnificently, and you would like to see it blooming next year, and for years after. A few simple steps will ensure that your amaryllis will thrive and multiply.

Firstly, after the blooms have faded, cut the bloom stalk with a sharp knife just above where it enters the bulb. It may “bleed” a little, but it will soon dry up and die.

Like all bulbs, next year’s flowers are formed in this year’s bulb, and it is important to make sure that you have strong leaf growth over the summer so that a large bulb will develop. If you are planning to keep the bulb in a pot, repot it in a large pot with good potting soil. The bulbs you buy in the store are usually in small pots and in a medium with poor nutrition. Alternatively, you can plant the bulbs outside after the danger of frost is past. It is better to plant in a partially shaded spot, as amaryllis leaves can burn in the full sun of July (though this does not seem to do them much harm). I plant mine in the shade of my tomato plants. Make sure that there is plenty of compost in the soil. Whether planting indoors in a pot or outdoors in the ground, the bulb should be only 50-60% covered with soil. The top of the bulb needs to be well clear of the soil surface to avoid rotting problems. When you are replanting the bulb you may find that small bulblets have formed round the sides. These can be carefully removed and planted separately. They will form new flowering bulbs in a year or two.

Now is the time for patience. Make sure that your bulbs are kept watered and that the leaves grow tall and strong. Once the weather turns cold in October, but before any serious frost, it is time to dig up the bulbs. Again, you may find small bulblets have formed and these should be carefully separated from the main bulb. With a sharp knife cut of the leaves about 1 inch from the top of the bulbs and cut off the roots. The bulbs must now rest in a cool dry place for at least 6 weeks. This is vital if you want the bulbs to flower well in the spring. I leave mine on newspaper in the garden shed until just before the winter holidays.

Now you can repot the bulbs in potting mixture in pots just large enough for the bulb. Bulbs of 2½  inches in diameter or more are very likely to flower. Several smaller bulbs can be potted in a “nursery pot” where they can grow, but probably will not flower. Again, plant the bulbs shallowly, and water from below.

In 2 – 3 months, depending mostly on the temperature they are kept at, the bulbs will flower. Now you can repeat the process. You will be amazed how the bulbs will multiply up and you will soon have plenty to give as presents to your friends.

Summer bulbs

By Michele Koskinen  

White fragrant lilies and hardy gladiola

When you hear bulbs what is the first flower you see in your mind? Is it a tulip, daffodil, crocus, snowdrop or other fall planted bulb. Can you name your favorite summer bulb? Flowers planted in the spring from bulbs or corms or rhizomes are called "Summer Bulbs". These include begonia, caladium, canna, dahlias, gladiola, lilies of many varieties, oxalis, and many more. Some are tubers and others corms but for this discussion they are all grouped together as summer bulbs. 

crocosemia

Fragrant Oriental Lily

Growing conditions for summer bulbs are different from spring bulbs in that a summer bulb needs full sunshine, with some exceptions, and decent soil and excellent drainage  (if the soil is clay and drainage is poor, the bulbs will rot). If those 3 conditions are met, it will most certainly give the summer bulbs a good growing habitat. Spring flowering bulbs will thrive in poor and infertile soil and extreme conditions of heat and cold. Summer bulbs need their requirements met to thrive. 

To get off to a good start, the bulbs need consistently warm soil. The planting date should always be after the last frost and the temperature preferably between 50 and 60 degree. 

                                                

Dahlia

 Many summer flowering bulbs and tubers are well suited for patio containers and should be planted closer for a full look. The most popular are begonia, dwarf canna, caladium and dwarf dahlia. 

Caladium and begonia

dahlia

Summer bulbs also require winter storage in a cool dry place after being dug up for the winter. Most of the tender bulbs require 40 to 50 degree temps in dry vermiculite or peat moss. Some grown in containers can be moved indoors and left in the pots to 
overwinter. A too warm storage climate dries them out and they are not viable the next season. 


Many summer bulbs are considered  hardy in our zone 6B-7 and do not need to be lifted. Iris and lilies are two that can be left in the ground and will multiply through the years as a regular perennial. For more information on the hardiness of the bulb, read the growing directions for the specific bulb you are planting.

A few tips from professionals.

Summer bulbs require a great deal of water immediately after planting. 

The soil in your garden should be continually moist not wet.

Sprouting is healthy; plants are anxious to get into the ground again. 
Maintain a pH level of 6 to 7 to bring out the true color of flower bulbs. 
Additional fertilizer is not necessary for summer flowering bulbs and tubers.

The Begonia Genus

By Kimberly Labno 

Rex Cultorum

Begonia is a huge diverse genus with over a thousand 

different species. The genus is represented by various groups including:  Semperflorens, Rex-cultorum, Rhizomatous, Tuberous (Multiflora and Pendula), Cane-stemmed, Winter-flowering, and Shrub-like.

Caring for your begonia is simple. Keep the soil moist not wet, bright light not direct sun, pinch the flowers and as far as fertilizing begonias is concerned, the general rule is to go lightly. 

In terms of caring for the plant when winter arrives, it boils down to whether one has a fibrous root, a tuber, or a rhizome. If you live in a cold area, you may want to grow semperflorens (wax begonias) in     pots so you can bring them in when it gets cold. 

Rhizomatous Mix

Many times Rex-cultorum is grown as an annual bedding plant. Watering “on demand” (or when the soil is dry to the touch) is a great way to keep Rex begonias happy. Avoid soggy conditions, but do not allow plants to wilt. Give Rex begonias a diluted dose of organic, soluble food every four to six weeks during the growing season. Begonias do not grow or use fertilizer efficiently below 58°F.

Rex begonias make excellent houseplants and can easily be overwintered indoors. To supply plants with adequate humidity, place containers on a tray of gravel, where runoff water may collect, evaporate, and raise the air-moisture level. Avoid placing plants near drafts.

Begonia tubers cannot remain in the soil over the winter in very cold climates. Wait until after a killing frost, and then dig up the tubers. Shake off any excess soil and let them dry in a warm spot for several days. Cut off any bad spots and then carefully pull the roots, stems and leaves off the tuber. Wrap each tuber in a brown paper bag or wrapper and put them in a cool, dry place for the winter.

B.Benitochiba

Since there are so many varieties, learning proper begonia care is often a matter of learning from experience. As with any plant, inspect for insects before bringing it indoors. Also, be mindful of maintaining proper humidity because indoor humidity is much drier than out of doors.  For more details on begonias of all types and their care, the following sites are wonderful resources.

http://begoniacare.net/

http://www.gardeningcentral.org/begonia_care/begonia_care.html

http://www.begonias.org/Articles/Vol47/CaneLikeBegonias.htm

http://www.provenwinners.com/learn/overwintering-begonias
http://www.national-begonia-society.co.uk/index.htm