Philadelphia Master Gardeners: Yeah, We Know Mr. Yuk.

Jessica S. Herwick


Mr. Yuk, doing his job.

For one week every year, Master Gardeners throughout Pennsylvania are given the opportunity to participate in a state-wide initiative to expand local awareness of Mr. Yuk and Poison Prevention while simultaneously supporting the Penn State Pest Education Program mission by delivering a special presentation to first grade students in schools throughout the state.  The lesson, designed by PSU Pest Education, features Mr. Yuk and his accompanying Poison Prevention Education, but also incorporates topics like pest identification, differentiating between “good and bad” bugs, and how to read a label.    

Officially, National Poison Prevention Week is held annually across the United States during the third week in March, although awareness and education presentations occur throughout the entire month in many counties.  

Master Gardener Table Set with Presentation Materials

This year, our Philadelphia Master Gardeners helped to celebrate National Poison Prevention Week by introducing city first-graders to Mr. Yuk and teaching youth to identify and avoid contact with toxic substances as well as what to do in a poison emergency.  But the highlight is almost always the conversation about pest identification and bugs - at least until the stickers are handed out at the end.

Master Gardeners enjoy the bug talk just as much.  Presenter Kia Linder pointed out that it’s just as important to talk about the good bugs when working with the youngsters, after all, we Master Gardeners are working hard to save pollinators, and you can’t swat at everything that flies.  Kia said “The best part for me, as a Master Gardener, was explaining to the children that a lot of insects play a major part in the growth of fruits and vegetables we eat to sustain life.”

Philadelphia Master Gardeners Tracy Katz, Kia Linder, Mary Anne Pedrick and Jessica S. Herwick, along with Jim Millisky (an enrolled MG Trainee getting ahead on those volunteer service hours) donated their talents and time to reach over 450 students in 7 schools and several after-school programs throughout the district.  Some joined the Penn State Pest Educators who came into town for program delivery, while coordinator Anna Herman and Master Gardener Michele Doberman helped things run smoothly behind the scenes.  All volunteers managed to distribute materials, knowledge and those cool Mr. Yuk stickers to help to make homes a safer place.
 

Jim Milliski discussing chemicals with 1st grade students at John B. Kelly School

Students from participating schools including Clara Barton Elementary, Blair Christian Academy, St. Gabriel’s Elementary, John B. Kelly Elementary, J. H. Brown, the Northeast Family YMCA, and Women’s Christian Alliance gathered around presenters on carpets in classrooms across Philly.  These pint-sized participants offered their own advice and suggestions.  For instance, a first grader from J.H. Brown recommended singing to cockroaches when you see them, instead of touching them.  When asked what they’d do if they found their little brother or sister playing with cleaning supplies under the sink, one energetic student chimed in “If your baby brother is playing with the stuff under there, close the doors, lock him in there and then go get your mother.” 

John B. Kelly School student shares his thoughts on chemical pesticides. We agree!

This can be complicated, confusing stuff for elementary schoolers who are naturally independent, inquisitive and prone to immediately rely on senses like taste, touch and smell to identify unknown substances.  This creates all sorts of opportunities for children to ingest a substance that will make them sick. It's a complicated world

out there, full of all sorts of products that intrigue the senses and 8 year old curiosities.  And this is what makes Mr. Yuk such an important safety figure for elementary school-agers. 

For example, the following photo contains 2 bottles with the labels pulled off.  One bottle is a toxic liquid cleaner.  One bottle is a sports drink.  Can you tell which is which?  A lot of the students and teachers had a difficult time telling the difference as well.  
 

Scroll to the very bottom to see which bottle is toxic. Look for Mr.Yuk.

According to Herwick, who spearheaded the registration and scheduling for the 2015 program, most every school has already pre-registered to bring the Philly Master Gardeners back again in March 2016.  That’s a lot of homework assignments away from the next Poison Prevention Week, but the MG presenters are looking forward to their return as they continue pre-registrations and refine their presentations in preparation for next year.  Philadelphia Master Gardeners intend to expand their reach in 2016 by at least doubling the number of registered Public, Charter and Private schools in the Philadelphia Area.

Educators and school employees interested in registering their first grade classrooms for this free program can contact Anna Herman or Jessica Herwick to get on the list for the 2015-16 school year.  Pre-registration is currently open! 

Looking for More Information?

Interested Philadelphia Master Gardeners can join the working group by signing up on the Volunteer Management System under Poison Prevention in Projects.

https://pennstate.volunteersystem.org/UniversalLogin.cfm


More About The History Mr. Yuk and Poison Prevention on This Blog
http://philadelphiacountymastergardeners.blogspot.com/2013/12/mr-yuck-in-cabinet-with-poison.html?m=1

 

Pittsburg Poison Center (The Creators of Mr. Yuk)
http://www.chp.edu/CHP/poisoncenter

 

Penn State Pest Education and Poison Prevention Programming Links
http://extension.psu.edu/pests/pesticide-education/educators

 

Teachers interested in pre-registration for 2016 Poison Prevention Week Presentations can email Anna or Jessica for more information.
Anna Herman, Master Gardener Coordinator  aeh22@psu.edu
Jessica Herwick   coffeehead75@yahoo.com


Mr. Yuk Poison Prevention NATIONAL POSTER CONTEST!
Currently, submissions of children's artwork and poster designs are being accepted for the National Poison Prevention Poster Contest.  The winners artwork will be printed onto posters and distributed nationally in 2016. Parents, Teachers, Caregivers can submit children's work.  See guidelines:
http://www.poisonprevention.org/poster.htm
 



ANSWER: Toxic Cleaner has Mr. Yuk Sticker.
Did you guess right?

Urban Container Farming

Container Farming           Jody Lannen Brady     MG Class of 2012

I have a little, shady square of land behind my rowhouse. Unfortunately the ground is full of rubble dumped inside retaining walls. I wouldn’t want to eat anything I managed to grow in that soil.

It’s a common urban predicament: little space, poor soil and limited sunlight. What’s a vegetable gardener to do? Think “containers.”

Vegetables can grow in just about anything that provides enough depth and drainage. Last year I grew peppers and eggplants in wash tubs, herbs in large clay pots, tomatoes in buckets and lettuce in hanging baskets. You could also repurpose plastic bins, trash cans, wood planters or plastic bags for your “farm.”

Match the right plant with the right size containers. Extensive Service guidelines suggest at least 5-gallon containers for tomatoes (one plant per container) but a two-gallon container can support a crop of bush beans planted just a few inches apart. If the container doesn’t already have drainage holes, you’ll need to make them. For the planting medium, you’ll want a lightweight, porous potting mix. “Large pot” mixes   come with coarse material that won’t degrade as fast as peat moss, and they often include water-retaining crystals to help hold water. Garden soil isn’t a good choice for containers because of weight and drainage issues.

The small space requirements of carrots, radishes, lettuce, green onions and herbs make them ideal choices for a container garden. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants require larger containers but many varietals will produce well in pots, buckets and tubs. A series of  Extension Service publications lists suggestions. Vertical growers (cucumbers, peas, pole beans) are good limited-space choices, as well.

Watering is crucial; soil in a container will dry out much faster than garden soil. On hot summer days, some plants may require twice daily watering; though checking moisture levels once a day is usually enough. I’m looking into self-watering options for my garden this year: timed drip irrigation, underground olas and containers with water reserves.

With all that watering, adding nutrients is essential. Pelleted time release products like Osmocote can be added at planting. When the plants are in production mode, weekly liquid fertilizer that’s high in potassium and low in nitrogen can boost yields. Organic options include fish emulsion, kelp meal/extract and bone meal.

To keep pests under control, IPM tools suited to the container garden include proper spacing (allow for air flow between plants), mulching, companion planting, floating row covers and timely harvesting. Find these tips and more in the “Growing Great Container Vegetables” guides available on the Penn State website.

We ate from our container garden all summer long and into the fall. What will I do differently next year? Add wheels to the bottom of my largest—and heaviest!—containers. It took two of us to move the wash tubs last year when we needed to find them a better patch of sun.

 Happy container gardening!

Both hyperlinks: http://extension.psu.edu/vegetable-fruit/fact-sheets/growing-great-container-vegetables

Edible Garden Ready to be planted 2013

The Edible Demonstration Garden has been prepared and ready for spring planting. Lois Fischer the chairperson along with Mary Ellen Post, Eldridge Ragsdale and others prepared the beds and began planting.






















Many of the perennial herbs in the garden are already coming to life after the warm winter and more are to be planted.
Differnt type of sage and oregano as well as  rosemary can
be seen in the photo below.

Should you reuse container soil again?

Do you throw out your container soil? What do you do to keep it fresh?   Do you mix your own container mix?


Gardening in containers require the soil be light and airy as well as have good drainage. This allows the roots to grow and "breath" So should you reuse your soil?

In the years I have gardened I have had to use containers as I have a brick back yard that is about
15 by 12. I always felt you could reuse the "dirt" soiless mix for containers again, if you helped it the next year with admendments and cleaned it out of the roots and debris. This was, of course, if you did not have any disease in the growing season. Soil that has had diseased plants or may have overwintering soil dwelling insects and their eggs should be discarded. Garden sanitation is essential in containers as well as the regular garden.


This has always worked for me and I didn't reconsider until recently when I started reading answers to the question........Can I reuse my container soil? It was confusing to say the least.

Some say, just throw it on the compost pile.         I don't have a compost pile.
Reuse it in your garden.                                       Again no garden.
And yes recycle that soil unless the actual structure has changed over the years.

When I start my growing season, I dump all of the pots, clean them out with a light bleach solution and start my new soil mix. I add my amendments, manure, perlite and peat moss, more soiless mix and mix mix mix. I use dehydrated manure because I do not have a compost pile, perlite and peat moss.
If I find the soil looks and feels spent I dump it in the recycle bag and take it to my local composting site.

I finish with a mulch on top to retain moisture and fertilize through the summer. So far it seems to have worked OK. This year I am using coir and mushroom compost as it is supposed to be better. To be determined.

Rotation with vegetables is also recommended as you would rotate in a raised bed. Heavy feeders, light feeders and light are all considerations. Most of my pots are flowers so it is easier, I feel, than growing vegetables in those pots. Since I dump and start anew every year it is easier to not worry about rotation.

So can you reuse your potting soil? Yes and No. If you dump amend and reuse yes. If you leave it in a pot and keep reusing I say no. I am sure there are many answers and many conclusions. This is mine from my experience.

Good Luck

Additional Information..........

http://www.mushroomcompost.org/faqs.htm

What's coir? Coir, pronounced kwar, is a rising star in horticulture. Also known as "coco coir" because it is made from fibrous coconut husks, coir is an effective, economical and earth-friendly addition or alternative to traditional peat-based blends. 

From Fine Gardening

Getting to the Coir of the Matter

Gardeners for years have lined their hanging baskets with long-fiber coir. Learn how this material differs from peat.

by James Robbins

Enlightened gardeners may be noticing something new in their potting media: a dark brown, fibrous material that has the look and feel of peat. The material is coir (pronounced “core”) dust. Like peat, it can be used as an organic component in potting media, or alone to amend garden soil or propagate plants.
So why would you choose one material over the other? One reason may have to do with your definition of a renewable resource. Peat comes from decomposed plant remains that have accumulated in waterlogged soils for thousands of years, and some people worry about diminishing peat bogs. Coir comes from a resource that many people consider more sustainable: coconuts.
The difference between peat and coir doesn’t end there. While peat tends to be acidic, coir leans toward a near-ideal pH, depending on the source. Some people also find that coir is easier to work with than peat. Coir retains more water than peat, making it a wise choice for many containers and hanging baskets. But the potential for high levels of soluble salts to accumulate is greater with coir-based than with peat-based soils. To eliminate any cause for concern, be sure to buy coir products from a reputable company.
Coir has been used for a decade in the United States by the commercial greenhouse industry and even longer by growers in the world’s tropical, palm-rich regions where it is produced, including Sri Lanka, Philippines, Mexico, and India.
Gardeners for years have lined their hanging baskets with long-fiber coir, and coir fibers are used to make common household items such as rope, doormats, and upholstery stuffing. Coir fibers are generated when the coconut husk is ground. Coir dust is the by-product of this process. Some of you probably have used chunks of coir dust to grow orchids, ferns, anthuriums, bromeliads, and other tropical plants.  

Nutrient and pH differences

In substituting coir for peat—whether using it alone as a garden soil amendment or in the potting mixes you make—be alert to possible differences in results. Coir is rich in potassium (K) and the micronutrients iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), and copper (Cu). The high potassium content means that a gardener could use a fertilizer that’s lower in potassium and still get good results. The other nutrients are a bonus—just like adding a vitamin pill to our daily diets. Because the pH of coir (5.5 to 6.8) is more neutral than that of peat (3.6 to 4.5), some gardeners may find that coir does not work as well for acid-loving plants, such as azaleas and blueberries.
Most gardeners are familiar with the challenge of wetting dry peat; coir is praised for being easier to rewet from a dry state. Overall, coir is a wonderful amendment if you want to improve the water retention of your hanging basket or container. Coir can absorb water at a rate of about seven times its dry weight. This is almost 30 percent more water than peat can hold.
While coir may not replace peat, it is nice to have a more easily renewable option. The positive qualities of this coconut by-product make it a natural fit in many garden applications.

The dos and don'ts of using coir

Do
* soak a compressed brick, block, or bale in water for at least 15 minutes before using.
* make sure the soaking container is big enough; coir will expand five to seven times in volume. For a brick, which yields about 1/3 cubic foot of coir dust, a drywall bucket will do. For a bale (about 2 1/2 cubic feet), use a child’s small swimming pool or an outdoor garbage can.
* add coir to garden soil as an amendment, or use it as an ingredient in potting mixes. Like peat, it can account for up to 40 percent of the potting mix.
Don't* use bricks that fail to absorb water readily and expand.
* try to slice a brick in half. Even a chain saw won’t cut it.
* toss out any unused coir. It retains its properties and can be stored—covered— for several years.

Photo: Melissa Lucas

From Fine Gardening 105 , pp. 20

Super Easy, Super Thrifty, Seed Tape!

By Jessica S. Herwick

Seed tape is a gardener and thoughtful landscaper tool.  It is used to manage the tiniest of seeds by securing them evenly throughout a strip of biodegradable material.  The strips can be cut and planted directly in your garden soil, producing evenly spaced, securely rooted plants.

You may have noticed seed tape advertised in seed catalogs or at your local nursery.  Lately I have been noticing seed tape making it’s way, more and more, onto the horticulture market.  I even saw carrot and lettuce tape for sale at the Lowe’s this year!  When I saw how much they were charging, I decided to come straight home and write this blog.  You see, I have been making my own seed tape for years, after receiving a free sample in the mail one winter.  It costs practically nothing and is made with materials you already have at home.  Follow the directions below to make, store and use your own seed tape and save your money for more seeds!

Why use seed tape at all?  There is a reason (several reasons, actually) why this item is becoming more popular among mainstream distributors.  Here are a few...

·        * It spares your back and your eyes: Planting seed tape is easier than crouching down over your seed beds and fussing with proper placement of the smaller seed varieties. 

·       *  It eliminates the need to thin seedlings: Seed tape places seeds the proper distance from each other and the paper holds small seeds in place while they germinate.  This prevents the sow-er from dropping too many seeds in one place (we’ve all done it).  It also prevents the seeds from gathering into small clumps and germinating together, which is usually why we have to thin the seedlings. 

·        * Perfection: It creates rows of annuals, veggies and herbs that come as close to being perfectly spaced as Mother Nature will allow.

·        * It gives the garden designer more control: Seed tape enables you to manipulate the seeds to create designs – imagine how much easier it would be to spell out your school’s name in flowers using seed tape for the design and planting!  Once practiced, even elementary school students could create a professional looking landscape or perfectly placed herb garden.

YOU WILL NEED:

Scissors

Newspaper (Black and White print ONLY! NO COLOR)

  Alternative to newspaper – white paper towels, white tissue paper

Wax paper

¼ Cup of Flour

¼ Cup of Water (room temperature)

Small Bowl

Spoon

Paint Brush (small, hard bristled watercolor brush)

  Alternative to paint brush – toothpick, cotton swab

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Cut newspaper (or paper towels, tissue paper) into long strips, about ½ inch to 1 inch thick.

2. Lay out wax paper.  

3. Place newspaper strips in rows on top of the wax paper.

4. Mix the Flour Paste: Combine ¼ cup flour and ¼ cup water.  Stir until a smooth, glue-like mixture is formed.  You may need to adjust – add enough water so that the mixture becomes thick, but thin enough to pour from the spoon.  Adjust consistency by adding more water or more flour as needed.     

             

  

5. Using a paintbrush or cotton swab, place one small dot of the flour paste where each seed should go.  I usually eye this up, but you can measure and mark the newspaper ahead of time to make this step easier.

... HOW TO KNOW WHERE TO PUT THE DOTS...

Refer to your seed packets for spacing.  Different plants need different amounts of space to grow properly.  Using the tape should eliminate the need to thin seedlings.  So, you want to space your seeds using the final spacing noted on the seed’s packet.  Usually the packet will tell you to “thin the seedlings to #inches apart”.  This is the measurement you will use for spacing your seeds on the tape. 

6. Lay one seed lightly on top of each flour paste dot.

7. Place a clean strip of newspaper on top of the strip you have just prepared with seeds and press down lightly until you see the liquid wet through both sides of the paper. 

8. Label the strip of seed tape and set aside on a clean, dry piece of wax paper.

9. Allow seed tape to air dry for 24 hours on the wax paper.

To Store:  Place seed tape in freezer bags with a zip seal.  Tape can be gently rolled up or folded to fit into bags.  You can also roll tape up and store in a Tupperware container with an airtight lid. 

To Plant: Follow the directions on the back of the seed packet for planting times and depth.  Dig thin trenches at the appropriate depth and lay seed tape into the trench.  Water well (so the newspaper is clearly wet all the way through) and cover with soil.  Water once again, and keep your eyes peeled for seedlings to emerge.

Click here for more seed starting tips and money saving tricks!

Paper Towel Roll "Peat" Pots

 By: Jessica S. Herwick

                                                                               This is a great trick that gardeners have been passing down for generations.  Don’t buy tons of peat pots, or biodegradable seed pots that claim you can bury them in the garden when transplanting.
Repurposing your empty paper towel rolls (or toilet paper rolls) to make seed starting pots is a quick and easy task that requires nothing more than a pair of scissors, a little water, and some fine motor skills.  An added bonus - just like the big name biodegradable seed pots, this seed starting method is one-stop-planting.  You start the seed in your homemade paper pot, and when the time comes to transplant the seedlings, you can plant                
                                                                                    the whole thing directly in the ground.  Try it out!

How To Make the Paper Pot ~

If using paper towel rolls, start by cutting them in half.
Toilet paper rolls are the perfect size already.
Make four 1/2 inch cuts to create 4 flaps at the bottom of the roll.
Make sure the flaps reach each other across the bottom.  You might have to make
the cuts longer than 1/2 inch to create a secure bottom for your paper towel pot.

Make four additional cuts, 1/4 inch long, one in the center of each flap.
Fold the opposing flaps into each other and secure in the center using the 1/4" slits.

Complete the bottom of your pot by folding the remaining flaps into each other and
securing them in place using the 1/4" slits.

Run the newly formed paper pot under the faucet to dampen the flaps at the
bottom. While the cardboard is still wet, sit the bottoms on a flat surface and use
a spoon to push the inside flaps down.  As the cardboard dries, the wet paper
will stick to itself and create a sturdy bottom for your paper pot. Allow to
air dry for 12 hours, or until all dampness has gone from the paper.

How To Start Your Seeds ~

Use a spoon to fill your paper pot with your preferred seed starting medium.  Check
the instructions on your seed packets for sowing depth if you're not sure how
much medium to put into the pot. Do not over pack the soil! It should be fluffy with
lots of room for the roots and stalk of the plants to do their thing!

Add your seed (one to a pot is best) and push down into the medium.  Note your seed
pack for depth!  Cover with a small sprinkling of medium and push down gently.
Do not over pack!  It should be fluffy with lots of room for the roots
and stalk of the plants to do their thing as they germinate.

Wet the medium so the water slightly dampens the cardboard of the paper pot.
Note that some water will drain from the bottom of the pot upon watering!
Note also that the paper pots are less sturdy from the bottom when they are wet.  I
recommend using a small plastic or terra cotta container (or clean yogurt cup!) to
prop and support the pots when planting.

Transfer planted pots into freezer bags with zip tops and label.
Seal top to create a warm, moise environment for your seed to germinate.
Note that three paper pots fit well into a sandwich bag.
Set above the fridge or in a quiet, sunny corner to germinate your seeds.
Open bag when seedlings emerge.
Hint: If writing directly on the plastic bag to label, do this before you
fill the bags.  It makes things much easier, and is the one step I often forget!

This Method Is Especially Effective With ~

* Pole Beans

* Bush Beans

* Any variety of Pea

* Tomato

* Cucumbers 

    (Transplanting is super easy - make your mound, dig a central space for the cylinder pots, and insert!)

For more information and ideas for repurposing your recycled goods to benefit your garden ~
http://philadelphiacountymastergardeners.blogspot.com/2012/03/starting-seeds-with-repurposed.html

Second Saturday Lasagna Gardening Presentation

The most recent Second Saturday was a presentation on Lasagna Gardening. The two Master Gardeners Cynthia Bailey and Andrea Lewandowski put together a great presentation describing the techniques and the reasons for gardening this way. It is a type of gardening that requires no digging and relies on layers of materials to benefit the garden.  As Cynthia expressed, it is easy on the back and cheap. This is a great method for all gardeners interested in organic gardening and making gardening a lifelong easier job.

As I was reading about Lasagna Gardening I came across an article in motherearthnews about Ruth Stout. Who is she? One of the first persons to advocate "No Dig" gardening. Ruth wrote a book in the 60's with the title "Gardening without work" For the aging, the Busy and the Indolent. Her bio is fascinating and shows the best practices for gardening are always alive and well in the gardening circles. Enjoy.


http://www.emmitsburg.net/gardens/articles/frederick/2007/stout.htm
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening/2004-02-01/Ruth-Stouts-System.aspx
http://awaytogarden.com/april-book-giveaway-ruth-stout-and-jim-crockett

Starting Seeds with Repurposed Recycling

By:  Jessica S. Herwick

With March in full swing, and April just around the corner, the time has come to prepare for this year’s garden!  Hooray!  This means starting the seeds you have spent the last few months collecting, drying, researching, and/or purchasing… if you haven’t done so already.  This also means that you will begin to see all sorts of fancy seed starting kits in your local nurseries and hardware stores.  Many big-name companies sell a variety of pricey, pre-packaged seed starting materials that claim to get the best results from your seed packages, but I’m here to tell you that you don’t need to spend that money!  

Budget the cash you would set aside for starter kits and buy more seeds. Instead, repurpose your recycling!  Discarded toilet paper and paper towel rolls, egg cartons, newspaper, yogurt cups, milk cartons, soda bottles and even your old newspapers can be used as fabulous seed starting containers!  You will be amazed with how many containers you throw away every week that simulate the very same properties as big-name growing kits on the market.  I encourage everyone out there to tilt your heads slightly to the left, and examine your recycling in a different way.  Look at the containers you already have available and think creatively about how to use them.  Included below are a few "how-to" ideas to get you started. Each week, a new set of instructions will be posted below to provide you with a new method you can experiment with every week throughout April. A new link will appear below on the days marked in blue. Note the dates, and stay tuned! 

March 30 ---- Paper Towel Rolls  One Step Planting!  

Great for starting beans, peas, nasturtiums and potatoes (from quartered starters).
LINK -> Paper Towel Roll "Peat" Pots - HOW TO

April 6  ------  Seed Tape   One Step Planting!

Most effective when used to prepare carrots, leafy lettuces, spinach, radishes and onions.  Many annual flower seeds are tiny and work well using seed tape as well.  The tiny seeds of most herbs also thrive when planted using this method.  

LINK-> Super Easy, Super Thrifty Seed Tape - HOW TO

April 13 ----- Gallon Milk Containers and Soda Bottles 

I prefer using these for tomatoes, since the tops can be laid back onto the container to create a greenhouse effect.

If you are concerned about cleaning your plastics, see Why Sanitize for quick tips on how to soak and sanitize plastic properly.  Click on the link below.
http://philadelphiacountymastergardeners.blogspot.com/2012/02/why-sanitize-spring-cleaning-your.html?spref=fb

April 13 ---- Egg Cartons

Perfect for starting herbs.  This is the only way I plant my herbs.  Lettuce also likes to germinate in egg cartons, from my experience.   You do have to thin the seedlings when using this method, but the number of plants it produces make it well worth the effort.

April 20 ---- Newspaper   One Step Planting!

Great for potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers and other squash/melons.  You can fold the edges high and fill with a low soil line to support the vines as the plant grows.  Another benefit to the newspaper method is the easy transplanting.  If you dampen the newspaper, and loosely rip the bottom, you can plant the whole thing in the garden.  No need to remove from the starter pot!

Second Saturday Grapefruit Yogurt Cake

By Eileen Kull

Hello all home bakers,
       Copied below is the recipe for the cake served at this month's Second Saturday Gardening Series. There were a lot of requests for the recipe, so here it is. Only the cake I made did not have the glaze. Enjoy!

Grapefruit Yogurt Cake

Adapted loosely from Ina Garten, (copied from the smitten kitchen website)

1 1/2 cups (190 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (230 grams) plain whole-milk yogurt
1 cup (200 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (13 grams) sugar
3 extra-large eggs
1 tablespoon grated grapefruit zest (approximately one large grapefruit)
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup (120 ml) vegetable oil
1/3 cup (80 ml) freshly squeezed grapefruit juice

For the glaze:
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons (30 ml) freshly squeezed grapefruit juice

Preheat the oven to 350�F. Grease an 8 1/2 by 4 1/4 by 2 1/2-inch loaf pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper. Grease and flour the pan.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt into 1 bowl. In another bowl, whisk together the yogurt, 1 cup sugar, the eggs, grapefruit zest, and vanilla. Slowly whisk the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients. With a rubber spatula, fold the vegetable oil into the batter, making sure it’s all incorporated. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 50 minutes, or until a cake tester placed in the center of the loaf comes out clean.

Meanwhile, cook the 1/3 cup grapefruit juice and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar in a small pan until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is clear. Set aside.
When the cake is done, allow it to cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Carefully place on a baking rack over a sheet pan. While the cake is still warm, pour the grapefruit-sugar mixture over the cake and allow it to soak in. Cool.

For the glaze, combine the confectioners’ sugar and grapefruit juice and pour over the cake.

The Begonia Genus

By Kimberly Labno 

Rex Cultorum

Begonia is a huge diverse genus with over a thousand 

different species. The genus is represented by various groups including:  Semperflorens, Rex-cultorum, Rhizomatous, Tuberous (Multiflora and Pendula), Cane-stemmed, Winter-flowering, and Shrub-like.

Caring for your begonia is simple. Keep the soil moist not wet, bright light not direct sun, pinch the flowers and as far as fertilizing begonias is concerned, the general rule is to go lightly. 

In terms of caring for the plant when winter arrives, it boils down to whether one has a fibrous root, a tuber, or a rhizome. If you live in a cold area, you may want to grow semperflorens (wax begonias) in     pots so you can bring them in when it gets cold. 

Rhizomatous Mix

Many times Rex-cultorum is grown as an annual bedding plant. Watering “on demand” (or when the soil is dry to the touch) is a great way to keep Rex begonias happy. Avoid soggy conditions, but do not allow plants to wilt. Give Rex begonias a diluted dose of organic, soluble food every four to six weeks during the growing season. Begonias do not grow or use fertilizer efficiently below 58°F.

Rex begonias make excellent houseplants and can easily be overwintered indoors. To supply plants with adequate humidity, place containers on a tray of gravel, where runoff water may collect, evaporate, and raise the air-moisture level. Avoid placing plants near drafts.

Begonia tubers cannot remain in the soil over the winter in very cold climates. Wait until after a killing frost, and then dig up the tubers. Shake off any excess soil and let them dry in a warm spot for several days. Cut off any bad spots and then carefully pull the roots, stems and leaves off the tuber. Wrap each tuber in a brown paper bag or wrapper and put them in a cool, dry place for the winter.

B.Benitochiba

Since there are so many varieties, learning proper begonia care is often a matter of learning from experience. As with any plant, inspect for insects before bringing it indoors. Also, be mindful of maintaining proper humidity because indoor humidity is much drier than out of doors.  For more details on begonias of all types and their care, the following sites are wonderful resources.

http://begoniacare.net/

http://www.gardeningcentral.org/begonia_care/begonia_care.html

http://www.begonias.org/Articles/Vol47/CaneLikeBegonias.htm

http://www.provenwinners.com/learn/overwintering-begonias
http://www.national-begonia-society.co.uk/index.htm

Forcing paperwhites for winter flowers.

Narcissus Paperwhite

Narcissus----------A little sunshine in the winter.

My favorite flowers to brighten a dark winter day are the Paperwhite Narcissus or the Soliel D'or which is yellow with an orange cup. Below are instructions for this winter sunshine.

                                                  

Paperwhites will grow happily and bloom with nothing more than water and stones or beach glass. To "plant" your bulbs in a soilless container begin by carefully placing a layer of stones or glass to a depth of about 2 inches in a small vase or about 4 inches in a larger vase. Next place a layer of bulbs close to each other, roots facing down, tips facing toward the middle. Put a few stones or pieces of beach glass around and between the bulbs to anchor them in the vase. Leave the tops of the bulbs exposed. Finally, add water until the level reaches just below the base of the bulbs, but no higher (if the bases of the bulbs sit in water, they will rot). Follow the instructions for "Rooting and care" below.

Soliel Narcissus

Bulbs in different containers

To pot the bulbs with potting mix, begin by placing the potting mix in a plastic tub. Slowly add water and stir until the mix is moist but not soggy. Add moistened mix to the accompanying container until it is about 3/4 full. Set the bulbs, pointed end up, on top of the mix. Space the bulbs very closely; they should almost touch. Then add more mix, covering the bulbs up to their necks and leaving the tips exposed. Water throughly. Follow the instructions for "Rooting and care" below.

Rooting and care: Set your container or vase in a cool (50-60°F is ideal) place away from direct sunlight. Check the bulbs frequently and water thoroughly when they potting mix is dry 1 inch below the surface (but not more than once a week until the bulbs begin active growth), or when the water level is more than an inch below the stones or glass in your vase. If your bulbs are in a bowl (a pot without a drainage hole), water with extra care: Bulbs sitting in soggy potting mix soon rot. Once a week, tug gently on the bulbs to see if they have begun to product roots. When your tug meets with firm resistance (usually about 3 weeks after potting), move the container to a sunny window. Keep a close eye on watering. Bulbs in active growth can dry out in just a day or two. When Paperwhites are forced to bloom indoors, they have a tendency to topple when in flower. Hold them upright with bulb supports or with bamboo stakes and twine (available at garden centers). 

Face the growth toward the center, my preference

Good root growth around the peebles and the water
is not covering the bulb.

The bulbs took about 2 weeks to get to the 4" height in darkness and cool climate. Moved into a bright area they grew and began to bloom within the next week. If they are kept away from heat sources and in the light they will do well.

If you don't want to start your Paperwhites right away or you want to hold some in reserve for a staggered display, store them at cool but not cold room temperature in a dark place.

After Paperwhites finish blooming, we recommend that you throw the bulbs out or toss them on the compost pile. They won't bloom again indoors. Happy forcing.