Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardening. Show all posts

Thursday, March 28, 2019

The Fairmount Organic Recycling Center



An old post but it's still valuable information for Philadelphia residents. Need compost take your buckets, ID and get some compost for your garden. 









Lauren McEwen
If you are a Philadelphia resident and a gardener, then RUN, don't walk to the the Fairmount Organic Recycling Center located at 3850 Ford Road in Fairmount Park.


It may not look like much from the entrance, but you've come to the right place!

The Organic Recycling Center is an amazing resource that many gardeners don't realize they have access to. For residential use, city residents may obtain free compost, mulch, wood chips and herbivore manure. Residents are allowed to take up to 30-gallons of material per trip, and to make up to two trips per week. Giant logs are also available for cutting into firewood at no charge. You must provide your own tools, and a chain saw and splitter are recommended for cutting logs into firewood. For the organic materials, I would suggest bringing gardening gloves, a shovel, and a tarp or plastic sheeting to protect your trunk from any spillage.




Residents that wish to obtain more than the free allotment must purchase the materials. Non-residents, landscapers, garden centers, contractors and soil dealers can also purchase materials, which can be loaded into trucks and trailers with a front end loader by Park Staff. 


The Organic Recycling Center Office is the building in the center.

Upon arrival, residents must stop in the office to provide their driver's license to Recycling Center staff to demonstrate proof of residency. Residents must also complete a daily log-in sheet and waiver form prior to loading materials onto their vehicles. There are a few shovels in the office that you may borrow, but I would suggest bringing your own. 

Today I'm here for mulch.

For those driving cars, you can pull up directly next to the huge piles of organic material to load your containers. Trucks (even non-commercial ones) are not allowed in this area. Folks driving trucks must stay parked by the office and then load their containers onto a provided cart to wheel them over.


I like to bring six 5-gallon containers because I can still lift them when full.

I'm not able to produce enough of my own compost at home to fulfill all of my gardening needs, so the Organic Recycling Center is a resource that I greatly appreciate and use often. Maybe on my next trip I'll see you there!



The Fairmount Park Organic Recycling Center is located at:
3850 Ford Road, Philadelphia, PA 19131
215-685-0108

Hours of Operation:
Monday-Friday 7:30AM-3PM

Saturday Hours:
April 1 - October 31
7:30AM-11:30AM

Friday, August 17, 2018

A Year of Roses- book review

Lisa Kucinskas


I recently read A Year of Roses which is a well written, informative book with a subtle sense of humor.  

This book is  a 12 chapter guide covering each month of the year in a rose garden.   
A snippet of a chapter by month
Not only does Mr. Scanniello, a
rosarian at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden in New York, guide us through 12 months of tasks to perform in the rose garden, he discusses varieties of roses, diseases, pests and some remedies for varying problems encountered when growing roses.
Example of rose diagram from A Year of Roses


 From this book, I learned about rose classes, old garden roses, modern roses and found out about the Heritage Roses Group based in California. The author suggests titles of books for further reading at the end of each chapter and has also written several other books about roses, that I am looking forward to reading.


Sample chapter on rose growth habits

Reading A Year of Roses is like sitting down with a trusted, learned friend and discussing roses.  Even if I never have a rose garden, I am glad to have read this book and recommend this book to anyone who has even a passing interest in roses.      

Enjoy!




                                                                        

Thursday, April 26, 2018

Plant Sale Success!

Marc Cappelletti


All smiles throughout the day. 
The morning sunshine shone warm and bright among the flowering trees, plants and display tables Sunday morning at the Fairmount Park Horticulture Center, as Penn State University Extension Master Gardeners set up for their annual plant sale. 

This annual sale raises funds for future outreach all while providing the public with expertly grown and cared for plants at very affordable prices.  

Learning about the power of seeds at the Science Fair tables.

Science Festival displays enhanced the event further, and were particularly intriguing to families and children curious about the soil beneath their feet and how science plays a part in their everyday lives. 
Container Gardening Presentation



Everything from succulents to herbs to tomatoes, peppers, edible greens, perennials, native plants and more were on sale. 

And as a bonus, the Master Gardeners were on hand to answer all gardening questions.


Almost time for tomatoes! 


Presentations ran throughout the morning as well, giving visitors a chance to learn about vermiculture (composting with worms), container gardening and the use of indoor plants to clean the air. 
A satisfied customer. 


City living--you have to get those plants home any way possible! 

A delicious salad dressing recipe to spice up our fresh greens. 

Teaching about herb pairings and salad greens. 
Visitors could also learn easy salad dressing recipes and herb pairings, possibly to use in time with their newly purchased plants!


The perfect "classroom" setting.


Everyone who came also enjoyed the chance to appreciate nature, our ultimate goal on this Earth Day.


Penn State Master Gardeners send a warm thanks to everyone that was able to attend.  Enjoy your plants!  

As always, we would love to hear from you.  How did you spend your Earth Day?

Thursday, June 27, 2013

Urban Container Farming



Container Farming           Jody Lannen Brady     MG Class of 2012




I have a little, shady square of land behind my rowhouse. Unfortunately the ground is full of rubble dumped inside retaining walls. I wouldn’t want to eat anything I managed to grow in that soil.

It’s a common urban predicament: little space, poor soil and limited sunlight. What’s a vegetable gardener to do? Think “containers.”


Vegetables can grow in just about anything that provides enough depth and drainage. Last year I grew peppers and eggplants in wash tubs, herbs in large clay pots, tomatoes in buckets and lettuce in hanging baskets. You could also repurpose plastic bins, trash cans, wood planters or plastic bags for your “farm.”

Match the right plant with the right size containers. Extensive Service guidelines suggest at least 5-gallon containers for tomatoes (one plant per container) but a two-gallon container can support a crop of bush beans planted just a few inches apart. If the container doesn’t already have drainage holes, you’ll need to make them. For the planting medium, you’ll want a lightweight, porous potting mix. “Large pot” mixes   come with coarse material that won’t degrade as fast as peat moss, and they often include water-retaining crystals to help hold water. Garden soil isn’t a good choice for containers because of weight and drainage issues.

The small space requirements of carrots, radishes, lettuce, green onions and herbs make them ideal choices for a container garden. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants require larger containers but many varietals will produce well in pots, buckets and tubs. A series of  Extension Service publications lists suggestions. Vertical growers (cucumbers, peas, pole beans) are good limited-space choices, as well.


Watering is crucial; soil in a container will dry out much faster than garden soil. On hot summer days, some plants may require twice daily watering; though checking moisture levels once a day is usually enough. I’m looking into self-watering options for my garden this year: timed drip irrigation, underground olas and containers with water reserves.

With all that watering, adding nutrients is essential. Pelleted time release products like Osmocote can be added at planting. When the plants are in production mode, weekly liquid fertilizer that’s high in potassium and low in nitrogen can boost yields. Organic options include fish emulsion, kelp meal/extract and bone meal.

To keep pests under control, IPM tools suited to the container garden include proper spacing (allow for air flow between plants), mulching, companion planting, floating row covers and timely harvesting. Find these tips and more in the “Growing Great Container Vegetables” guides available on the Penn State website.

We ate from our container garden all summer long and into the fall. What will I do differently next year? Add wheels to the bottom of my largest—and heaviest!—containers. It took two of us to move the wash tubs last year when we needed to find them a better patch of sun.











Monday, March 5, 2012

Why Sanitize? Spring Cleaning Your Containers.

By Jessica S Herwick
Re-using your pots from last year can be a big money saver, and it reduces waste, which is always a plus. Even so, thrifty gardeners should beware!  You could be recycling all sorts of problematic pathogens, damaging mineral/salt deposits or even last year’s weeds in an effort to reduce your carbon footprint. 

The difficult to prevent white and gray rings that develop around your containers are mineral and salt deposits that accumulate over time. These are unattractive to some gardeners but can actually dehydrate a plant if the roots sit against areas with extreme collections of these deposits.  Spores and bacteria that cause mold, fungus and even root rot can stick to your containers, but hide from the naked eye.  This makes it impossible to detect which pots are harboring trouble for your new plants. So, even if it looks clean, it may not be.  Many of these pathogens will remain undetected until your seedlings are growing strong and then - BAM! - Out of nowhere, problematic and often fatal plant illnesses begin to crop up unexpectedly.

To diminish the risk of transferring mold, viruses and harmful bacteria from one seedling to the next, plan to sanitize your recycled pots, flats and gardening tools as you plan for this year’s garden.  Try the following methods for easy, affordable sanitization of your pots, flats and gardening equipment or see the links to read more about sanitization methods.  While you’re at it, consider pasteurizing your old potting soil instead of purchasing new bags this season.

EASY TO MIX BLEACH SOLUTION

You Will Need:  
Chlorine Bleach
(Also known as household bleach. Use only unscented.)
Liquid Measurement Device
(You can use most anything: measuring cups to reused gallon milk jugs. It just depends on the amount of solution you need to mix.)
Rubber Gloves or Kitchen Gloves

STRENGTH OF SOLUTION:  You want to mix a bleach and water solution that is strong enough to kill the harmful debris and break down remains from last year’s plants that might stick to the edges of the pots.  At the same time, if the bleach solution is too strong, it will be difficult to rinse from the pots – especially clay, terra cotta or other containers made of similarly porous material.  You do not want the bleach to come into direct contact with the new plants that you’ll eventually place into reused containers, so measure carefully, and the rest of the process will be a piece of cake.

SOLUTION RATIO:  The rule of thumb ratio, and the recommendation from the Penn State Extension Office is a 1:9 solution, meaning 1/10 unscented, chlorine bleach to 9/10 water.  The amount of solution you will need to mix will depend on the size and shape of the containers or equipment you are sanitizing.  You need enough space to completely submerge your containers (or all pieces of metal for gardening tools) in a pool of the bleach solution. Test out a large sink, bucket or basin to ensure your materials will fit well; Base your ratio on the amount of liquid your basin will hold. Estimating is okay, but try to stay as close to the real math as possible.

CONVERTING: One gallon equals 16 cups; One tenth of that is 378.541178 milliliters, or 1.6 cups. For a gallon container you would mix 1½ cups bleach with 14½ cups water to total 16 cups of liquid solution – or one gallon. Simple math can help you determine the proper ratio, or you can try an online conversion site and let them do the math for you! The conversion sites I have found to be the easiest and most helpful are listed below.
http://www.onlineconversion.com/volume.htm
http://www.calcul.com/cooking-conversion

Hint #1:   Mix the bleach solution in a standard five-gallon bucket, then transfer the solution into spray bottles, or back into empty bleach containers for later use.  The fresher the solution, the stronger it will be.  Solution will keep well over time, but looses its strength the longer it sits.  If you cannot smell the bleach/chlorine in the water when you take a small sniff – if it doesn’t sting your nose at all - then the solution is no longer potent.  Use this method to test old bottles of solution before using to ensure success.
Hint #2:  Recycle your clear plastic, gallon milk jugs for easy measuring and storing!  Set a few aside before you put your weekly recycling out on the curb.  I mark off the line where 1½ cups of bleach sit on the outside of the milk jug with a sharpie.  Then, when it’s time to mix, I fill the bleach to my pre-marked line (using a funnel) and fill the rest of the jug with lukewarm water.  If I’m filling a five- gallon bucket, I do this 5 times, pouring the mixture in one gallon at a time.  This also helps to mix everything up, eliminating the need to stir the solution.

ALTERNATIVE METHOD: If you are absolutely against using chlorine bleach, you might want to try using heat to sanitize in place of the bleach solution. After using dish soap and warm water solution to scrub debris from your pots or garden tools, submerge and soak in boiling water  (180 degrees Fahrenheit at all times) for 30 to 60 minutes. The longer you maintain the temperature and continue the soak, the more pathogens you are killing off. Upon removing items from the hot water soak: Wash gently with mild soapy water (using dish soap again).  Rinse until the water runs clear, and set in direct sun to dry for 12 hours. May Not Be As Effective As Bleach Solution!!!


To Sanitize Plastic and Terra Cotta Pots and Planting Containers

You Will Need:
Chlorine Bleach (unscented)
Measuring Cup or Gallon Milk Jug (See above Hint #2)
Warm Water
Large Bucket, Basin or Kitchen Sink (for soaking)
Unscented Dish Soap
Scrub Brush or Old Tooth Brush
Steel Wool (for tough to remove mineral/salt deposits)
Rubber Gloves

INSTRUCTIONS
·      Soak pots and planting containers in warm, soapy water to loosen fragments of matter.  Use a scrub brush to scour the pots clean, scrubbing off any debris as well as those nasty mineral/salt deposits. 
·      Use Steel Wool for difficult to remove stains and rinse with warm water until all the soap runs off.
·      Make a bleach solution: 1 part bleach to 9 parts water (see above for more info.)
·      Completely submerge pots and planting containers in solution and soak for 10 to 15 minutes. 
·      Upon removing the containers, rinse with warm water. 
·      Scrub lightly with soapy water (using unscented dish soap) and rinse well until soap runs off and water runs clear. Inspect for remaining residue and repeat procedure if necessary. 
·      Lay containers out to dry for 24 hours before using.  If possible, dry pots in direct sunlight.  Exposure to the sun can also help to kill off certain bacteria. 

NOTE:  If stains or heavy residue still remain after the sanitation process, it is not recommended to re-use the pot. Discard any materials when sanitization is unsuccessful. Some plastic pots can be recycled.  If you’ve stored containers or flats from your local nursery, you can often return them.  When I cannot sanitize a terra cotta pot, I break it into pieces and bury them in the backyard, away from the garden and ornamental shrubs.



To Sanitize Garden Tools
You Will Need:            
Chlorine Bleach (unscented)
            Measuring Cup or Gallon Milk Jug (See Above - Hint #2)
            Warm Water
            Large Bucket, Basin or Kitchen Sink (for soaking)
            Unscented Dish Soap
            Steel Wool or Wire Bristled Brush (for rust build up)
            Rubber Gloves

·      Soak tools in warm, soapy water to loosen fragments of matter.  Use steel wool or a wire bristled brush to scour the tool, scrubbing off any debris or rust spots.
·      Make a bleach solution: 1 part bleach to 9 parts water (see above for more info.)
·      Completely submerge tools in solution and soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
Hint:  If the tool is cumbersome or oddly shaped, and you cannot soak it, try filling a spray bottle with the fresh bleach solution.  Spray the entire tool to the point of saturation (until solution is dripping from the tool).  Allow to stand for 20 to 30 minutes before moving onto the next step.
·      Upon removing the tools, rinse with warm water. 
·      Scrub with soapy water (using unscented dish soap) and rinse well until soap runs off and water runs clear. Inspect for remaining residue and repeat procedure if necessary.  Ensure all the bleach has been rinsed off (bleach is corrosive and will cause rust if left on the metal of your tools).
·      Lay tools out to dry for 24 hours. If possible, dry in direct sunlight. Exposure to the sun can also help to kill off certain bacteria, and will help your tools dry completely – small areas around hinges or other joints will collect water, and if not dried properly, or if bleach remains, both conditions will cause rust to form on your tools. 

NOTE: When you are finished drying your tools, oil them before putting away.  Use machine oil or penetrating oil.  Dip a dry cloth into the oil and rub onto all metal areas of the tool.  Rub as if you are applying stain or oiling a pan for baking.  Use a dry cloth or go over the oiled areas to remove excess.  

To Pasteurize Potting Soil for Re-Use
You Will Need:
An Oven or An Outdoor Grill
High Heat Thermometer
Old cookie sheets

·      Preheat your oven to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. 
·      Spread several inches of dry soil across the cookie sheet.  Do not overload the pan, but utilize the space.
·      Place cookie sheet full of soil into oven. 
Hint:  Heating soil inside an insulated oven can leave an odor for several days after the process is complete.  To help prevent smell, heat oven to 200 degrees instead of 180 and leave the oven door slightly ajar during the heating process then place a box of baking soda into the oven once cooled, or try open broiling fresh lemons in a pan of water to kill the stench.
·      Use your thermometer to take readings of the center of the soil every few minutes.  When the soil temperature reaches to 212 degrees Fahrenheit or above, most soil borne organisms cannot survive and the soil is considered sterile for all standard potting purposes. 
·      Remove soil from oven and place out to cool, keeping soil on cookie sheet. 
Hint:  Pasteurizing potting soil will kill all organisms – good and bad.  Before re-using sterilized potting soil, combine organic matter, compost, or slow release fertilizer according to directions in order to rejuvenate you’re potting mix and replace necessary minerals and helpful organisms.  Note that fertilizer can create higher amounts of salt deposits.  Bone meal, blood meal and compost are less likely to contain harmful salts.
.
ALTERNATIVE METHODS FOR PASTEURIZATION:

Outdoor Grilling Method:  An outdoor grill works as well as an oven, and will prevent the strange, earthy smell that cooking soil produces from contaminating your house for 48 hours. Purchase or re-use large aluminum roasting pans, fill with old soil, cover and place on the grill until temperatures reach 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Stir once to encourage the soil to heat evenly. Remove, cool, and mix in your organic matter to rejuvenate the soil.

Boiling Water Method: Boiling water can also kill off most of the harmful organisms lurking in your old soil.  Try poking holes in the bottom of a large storage container, paint bucket, or other plastic container.  Fill 2/3rds of the way with your old soil.  Boil enough water to pour continuously over the entire mass of soil.  Pour the boiling water into the container until the soil becomes muddy. Be sure to place your container in a location where the boiling water can safely drain out through the holes at the bottom of your container.  A few large stones along the bottom of your container will help with drainage if the soil is very fine and clogs the holes.  Place in the sun, covered with black plastic (a cut up garbage bag will do).  When it is dry, mix in a little organic matter and use.   

To read more about sanitization and pasteurization methods, check out the extension links and websites below:




The National Garden Association has a website full of helpful hints and information according to region.  Check them out at  http://assoc.garden.org/about/



Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Vegetables that grow in the shade


Ten Vegetables You Can Grow Without Full Sun
By Colleen Vanderlinden, from About.com Guide

When most people picture a vegetable garden, they imagine a spot that bakes in the sun all day. For some vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, and squash, this is the ideal site. What if we want to grow vegetables, but don't have a site like this "ideal" one available? There are plenty of vegetables that will grow well without full sun. Those of us who have shade can grow vegetables, too.
Basically, a good rule to remember is that if you grow a plant for the fruit or the root, it needs full sun. If you grow it for the leaves, stems, or buds, a little shade will be just fine.
Keep in mind that no vegetable will grow in full, dense shade. The following crops will produce with three to six hours of sun, or fairly constant dappled shade, per day.
1.Salad Greens, such as leaf lettuce, arugula, endive, and cress.
2.Broccoli
3.Cauliflower
4.Peas
5.Beets1
9.Leafy Greens, such as collards, mustard greens, spinach, and kale
10. Beans
In some ways, growing in a site with part shade is easier than growing in full sun. You won't have to water as often, and crops that are quick to bolt in hot weather, such as lettuces and spinach, will grow quite a bit longer given some shade.
The best thing about knowing that these crops will successfully grow with some shade is that you'll be able to get more produce from your garden. Even if you're lucky enough to have an area with full sun that you can reserve for a vegetable garden, knowing which plants will take some shade will help you get the most out of your space. You can use that sunny space to grow the sun-lovers: peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, corn, and squashes. The other crops, those that do well in the shade, can be tucked in anywhere. Grow some beets or swiss chard in your part-sun perennial border. Grow some lettuce or radishes in a container or window box. Make use of the space you have, in both sun and shade, and you can easily double the amount of vegetables you would usually get.
Having a shady garden doesn't mean you're destined to live a life devoid of fresh garden vegetables. By making the most of what you have, you can harvest lettuces, peas, and other tasty veggies from spring through fall.
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